I had to take down a fairly large cherry tree recently - it was about 120' high and maybe 28' across at the ground level. I have 'whittled' away at huge root balls by cutting out smaller chunks from what I guessed was clear wood. If possible, after digging it up use a pressure washer to remove all the dirt, cut off the long roots, examine what remains carefully for places where the roots have grown tight together which might grip rocks. There is often wonderful figure in the wood next to and better, below ground! The problem in cutting up what is below ground from any tree is the possibility of rocks and dirt inclusions which can dull the chain saw in a millisecond. Forest Products Laboratory has a document.Īs for the stump, I've had success in preventing checking for a while by sealing with Anchorseal then covering with plywood to keep the sun off. If submerging in something like 55gal drums change the water occasionally. To keep the chunks indefinitely you can submerge them in water, even without sealing.

(I say 'usually' after my experience with one cherry that simply refused to check.) Keep the wood off the ground and out of the sun. Black cherry is 'usually' prone to rapid and serious checking on the end grain, sometimes even if well sealed if the weather is warm. Whatever you do, do it right away! (unless it's raining enough to keep things wet.) As Roger said, cut the smaller ones down the pith and seal the ends (ASAP) This will help prevent splits and the anchorseal will help slow checking. I don’t have time to rough turn them, what’s the best way to minimize checking until I have time to turn them? Also, I left the stump 16”-18” above ground plus I plan on digging up some of the root ball, should I do anything to the stump? The tree is still alive, I wouldn’t be surprised if it sends up suckers from the stump. I have 8 pieces from the trunk that are 12”-14” long, and I have a 5’ section of the trunk. We cut down a wind damaged cherry tree today.

Cherrytree woodworking